How to replace a broken floor tile in your home


A floor covered with ceramic tile is about as durable and low-maintenance a surface as you can get. Replacing a broken or chipped tile is pretty simple to do and one that any homeowner can handle.


1. Remove the grout
Pop on your safety glasses to protect your eyes from chips and dust, then rake out the grout around the broken tile using a carbide-tipped scoring tool. Apply just enough pressure to remove the grout but not so much that a slip will gouge the neighbouring tiles.
2. Loosen the tile
Apply masking tape around the edges of the adjacent tiles to protect them. Drill evenly spaced holes into the broken sections of tile with a 6mm HSS bit. This helps free the pieces from the floor and makes them easier to chisel out.


3. Chisel out the pieces
Working from the centre out toward the edges, gently tap out the broken pieces with a hammer and a narrow chisel. If you don't have a tile chisel, a cold chisel or even a flat-blade screwdriver will also do the job. Start with the chisel at 90 degrees to the floor, then switch to a 45-degree angle after you penetrate the glaze. Once the broken tile is removed, use a wider chisel to clean all the old adhesive off the substrate.


4. Set the new tile
Comb a small amount of tile adhesive over the floor in straight furrows using a notched trowel. For best adhesion, also butter the back of the new tile with thinset. Set the tile in place and press down firmly to level it with the surrounding tile. Adjust it so the spacing is even on all sides.


5. Fill the joint with grout
Wait at least two hours for the thinset to cure, then mix up a batch of grout. Swipe the grout into the joints with a rubber grout float held at a 45-degree angle, then wait 15 minutes for it to harden. When the grout no longer feels tacky to the touch, clean off the excess with a damp sponge.


6. Allow the grout to dry
Don't walk on the tile for 24 hours.

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Headboard for little boy in your home


What boy is not fascinated by cars - no matter what their age, and this cute Volksie headboard is perfect for any little boy.
headboard for boy
I wanted to make a vintage Volkswagen Beetle themed headboard for the bed, so I found an image online that had the look I was after.
On the computer, I enlarged it to the size I wanted (the widest part of the car slightly larger than the width of the existing headboard), but it probably would have been easier to rent an overhead projector and enlarge it that way.
It printed out over several (like 30!) pages, so I taped them all together so that I would have one very large image.
I cut out the image and traced it onto the supawood.

You can use a variety of materials for the headboard, but PG Bison SupaWood is the best for painting. SupaWood has a nice, smooth finish that requires very little preparation.
Have the board cut to the width of the bed:
920mm - single
1100mm - three-quarter
1400mm - double


If you are fitting the headboard over an existing one, make a box on the back of the headboard, leave the bottom of the box open so that the new headboard can be slipped over the top of the old one.

Alternatively, mount directly onto the wall with Fischer wall plugs and screws.



GOOD TO KNOW
You can also use a large sheet of tracing paper.
Use a pencil to outline the mark to make more visible and then cut out with ajigsaw.
Use a clean-cut blade to cut out and sand cut edges with 220-grit sandpaper until smooth.
When painting, I started with the lightest colour and worked to the darkest colour. That way, I wasn’t worried about having one colour bleed through another if they overlapped a bit. I did two coats of each colour before moving to the next colour.
Prominent Paints - Sheen - is excellent for this type of project. It is easy to apply with a brush, roller or spray system and provides a durable finish that is completely washable.
[via]

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Add to your home - a splash of summer colour


Add a splash of colour to a little girl's bedroom with our fun flower stand.
You will need:
22 x 50mm pine cut to 300mm long
16 x 50mm pine cut to 300mm long
acrylic paints
Mod Podge
Drill-Driver + asstd drill/screw bits
5 x 45mm wood screws
Ponal wood glue
Hacksaw or jigsaw
scrapbook paper
8mm dowels
Coloured felt
Hot glue gun and glue sticks

Here's how:
1. Sand everything before assembly with 180-grit sandpaper.
2. Paint the section with acrylic paint as shown in the finished project.
3. Cut a triangle shape off the corners of the 22mm one so the top is wider than the base.
4. Drill 3mm pilot holes for your screws to hold the base to the bottom of the flower pot. Countersink so that the screw heads will be sunk into the wood and the base can stand straight.
5. Use an 8mm wood bit to drill holes in the top of the flower pot for the dowels. You do not need to drill more than 20mm down.
6. Use a hacksaw or jigsaw to trim the dowels to varying lengths.
7. Add a drop of wood glue to the dowel holes and insert the dowels. Let the glue dry.

Flowers
There are so many ways you can make flowers. I chose to use felt because, with a high melt glue gun, it will melt to the dowel pretty well when you glue it on.
I also used felt for the centres of the flowers because I like the bright colours. I hand sewed these on to help them stay more securely than they might with glue. If you want to use a button in the centre of your flower, be sure you sew it on securely before you glue your felt to the dowel.
You could make the flowers different on each side of the flower, too. There's a lot of room for creativity here!

You need 10 flowers all together. Glue your flowers to each side of the dowel.




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Your home and fancy DIY Contemporary Chandelier


Crystals hanging from an aluminium pole are all you need to create a glamorous, and sexy feel to your kitchen or dining table. Lighting is provided by battery-operated LED lights and your guests will be bathed in long-lasting, glittering, twinkling crystal light.

You will need:
Dremel MultiTool and 1.6mm drill bit
Wire rope
Ceiling fixing
2 x wire rope stoppers
1 x LED strip light
900 x 40 mm diameter length of chrome pipe 
Here's how:

1. Marking up
Buy a length of chrome pipe or curtain rod 900 mm in length and mask up with masking tape to protect the surface of the chrome and be able to mark up.
Draw a line along the entire length of the pipe and then another line 20mm away on either side. The two outer lines are where the crystals will hang.
Use the centre line for adding battery-operated LED lights, mounting the battery pack at the top of the pipe.

GOOD TO KNOW
If you cannot find chrome pipe, use PVC pipe and then spray with Rust-Oleum Universal Metallic - chrome silver

2. Drilling your light rail
Use a centre punch to avoid your drill skating across the surface of the handrail and then drill a pilot hole through the pipe using your Dremel 8200 with the Dremel drill bit 1.6mm.
You will need to drill holes along the centre strip to attach the type of battery-operated LED lights that you purchase, as well as holes on the two outer lines to mount the crystals.

On the top line, mark up a spot 20 mm from each end. This will be the position for the wire rope to go through the handrail to hang your crystal light rail to the ceiling. Drill the size of holes suitable for the wire rope you intend to use.
3. Wiring Up
The original project featured individual LED lights, but it is far easier and practical to add a strip light onto the chrome pole. Install according to the manufacturers instructions and fit the transformer to the top of the chrome pipe, or through the ceiling.

4. Hanging the light rail
Fit hanging wire ropes through the holes you’ve previously drilled at each end of the handrail and cut to the required length, depending on the height of your ceiling and how low you want the light rail to hang over your table. Secure with rope locks.
Insert the other end of the wire rope into the ceiling fixing. Secure with another rope lock.




5. Hanging the crystals
Once the light rail is hanging in place securely, hang all your crystals into the holes you have drilled previously and switch on to test your light rail.





Experiment with style

There are so many options and variations for designing a light fitting in this way. It allows you to be creative with crystal beads in different configurations.

LEFT: This dining chandelier features a selection of large and small crystal beads.


WHERE TO BUY BATTERY-OPERATED LED LIGHT

Price Check 

Decor Electrix

Magic Lighting

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Decorating a small home


When it comes to small spaces, smart storage is key. An uncluttered home is a spacious home and you will be amazed at some of the storage ideas we show below.

Clever Storage
Now here's a unique way to have space and art! The apartment shown above has extra seating hanging on the wall in the hallway. Whether it's doing something similar or installing cubbies beneath the bed, make sure you're being creative with storage space.

Play with shapes
It would be great if we could all fit a ten-seater dining table into our homes, but that not a reality for most of us. The home above didn't have a large space for a rectangular table, so the homeowners opted for a circular table instead. The shape fits perfectly in the space and can still seat up to six guests.
Let the eye travelGlass, acrylic and lucite should all become your best friends when decorating for a small space. Not only do they fit with a variety of styles, but they let the eye travel through their clear and reflective surfaces.
Create multi-functional spaces
When space is tight, it's important to create areas that are multifunctional. The den above has a couch that can be used to watch TV, or to house guests, thanks to the pull-out bed inside.
Play with reflections
A mirrored wall (like the one in the bachelorette pad above) is a great way to open up a small space. The reflective surface creates an optical illusion of having double the space than is actually there.
Use every nookA small home allows for no wasted space, so be sure to make good use of every corner. The apartment above had an oddly-shaped nook in its layout, but the homeowners found it to be a good spot for a round dining table, two chairs and a mini banquette.
Go large in small dosesThere's this strange myth out there that if you use large furniture in a small space, it will eat up the room. This can be true if you try to stuff a large bedroom set in a 4m x 4m room, but you can still introduce large pieces in small quantities. Don't want to give up your queen-sized bed? Instead, cut back on other pieces like large armoires and bulky side tables. Your big bed will become a beautiful focal point in the room.
Experiment with colourSure, white walls can make a small room look airy, but don't limit yourself to just neutrals. The bedroom above has sandy walls, but also includes an artistic chalkboard wall - don't you just love it!. Pops of colour in the cushions bring life to the space and do anything but make it feel smaller.
Sort out your stuff
There's no need to get rid of all your 'stuff' just because you live in a small space -- just make sure you have savvy storage spaces. The teeny bathroom above has full cabinetry underneath the sink, but features sliding doors to keep things looking sleek. Thin glass shelves above the toilet neatly hold items that are frequently used so they're always at the ready.
Careful coordinationMuch like the myth of sticking to one focal point, many of us are scared to use pattern in a room in fear that it will look too busy. The living space above uses seven different patterns and they all blend together to create a cohesive space. The key is to use a similar colourway -- each of the patterns either use a neutral or the coral colour used on the walls.

Now forget everything you've previously been told and decorate your small home in the style you love!

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Create an outdoor sanctuary at your home


The heady days of summer provide us with an opportunity to spend more time outside the home to unwind from the fast pace of modern living. Turn your outdoor sanctuary into an attractive spot where you can entertain and celebrate with friends and family in pure alfresco bliss.

Whether you are after ample space to entertain a big family or planning a secluded spot for quiet reflection and alone-time, attractive flooring and cladding can help you convert the area into an extension of the home.
Tiles are the ideal material to create a leisure spot that is practical, beautiful and welcoming. The most suitable tiles to use outdoors are natural, terracotta and porcelain tiles, but not polished porcelain tiles if the area is going to become wet.


Stone is quarried from the ground and cut into pieces to form natural stone tiles. They include sandstone, slate, granite, and natural marble such as travertine all of which are perfect to transform an outdoor area. "The look is organic elegance, with the added benefits of excellent durability and little maintenance being required," says Kate van Niekerk, marketing manager for Tile Africa.

Slate is an extremely versatile and a beautiful natural material, with variable layers of colour and texture. It is a wonderful flooring option as it is porous and absorbs water, making it less slippery. With striking variations of colour and pattern, slate tiles will transform a plain floor or wall into a design statement.

Sandstone cladding creates eye-catching textured walls, whilst sandstone tiles give a natural matt-finish to floors. Offering varying shades of vanilla, ivory and warm honey, sandstone adds a natural and calming feeling to any outside entertainment area.




There are several advantages to using natural tiles outside the home. They are very hard and durable and can withstand harsh weather conditions. Slate and sandstone tiles will last a lifetime and with good care they will provide you with a unique floor and wall area thanks to the distinctive character of each tile. Another benefit is that natural stone is classic and won’t date.
It is essential to note that natural stone tiles need to be sealed after installation. You will find a wide range of Tile and Floor Care products at your local Builders Warehouse.

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Your home, pool repair and cleaning tips


Summer is just around the corner, and that means hot days and cold dips in the pool. Before it's too late to tackle any problems or repairs yourself, inspect your pool now and take action to remedy any repairs.
If your swimming pool is starting to look like a crocodile infested swamp - it's time to get take remedial action. The first step is to identify the problem: Stains in a swimming pool can be caused by metals in the pool water, or by algae and the best clue to the source of the problem is the colour of the stain.

How to get rid of Algae


Almost every swimming pool owner has, at one time or another, done battle with the occasional green spots and murky pool water. During the windy seasons and summer storms, algae spores contaminate a pool, driven by wind and rain. When pool water is unbalanced, algae spots can occur seemingly overnight. Warm temperatures, sunlight and the presence of nitrates and/or carbon dioxide - all can easily create the perfect situation. Of course, a lack of proper circulation, filtration and sanitation may be the primary cause of the algae.
Like the weeds in your garden eventually overtake when left unattended, algae builds up to such a level that is clogs up the filter - minimising filter effectiveness and requiring more backwashing. Algae also consumes chlorine that should be working on other contaminants.

Black Algae

If you wake up one morning and find black algae spots on the sides of yourmarbelite pool, it's time to take immediate action. Black algae spots occur in swimming pool water that has a low free chlorine level and/or the pool chemicals are unbalanced. Good circulation is a must!
Because black algae is resistant to chlorine, throwing in a couple of cups of chlorine - or even a shock pack - won't have any effect. The only way to get rid of black algae is to use the correct chemicals, a stiff pool brush and algaecide.
It's not an easy process to remove black algae spots, so be prepared to roll up your sleeves, slap on some suntan lotion and be ready to start brushing loose the algae. Because black algae forms a protective barrier around itself, you need to brush the affected areas really hard with a stiff brush, so that an algaecide can do the job.
Once all the black algae has been brushed off, pour algaecide into the pool; leaving the pump off overnight, or as specified by the manufacturer.
Brush again in the morning, adjust the pH and correct the chlorine level. Keep your pool chlorine level adjusted to 7.2 - 7.6) to prevent reoccurrence and the chlorine residual at 1.0-3.0ppm.

Common treatment:
  • Test the pH of your water and adjust to between 7.2 and 7.6
  • Use a stiff pool brush to vigorously scrub the algae infested area. Black algae builds up a protective slimy coating, so you may need to be quite a bit of brushing.
  • Set the pump on backwash to clean out the filter
  • In the early evening, shock treat with 1 pack of HTH Shock It
  • The following morning, place the pump on circulate/re-circulate/bypass position and add 1 bottle of Black Algaecide around the sides of the pool
  • In the early evening, brush down the walls of the pool and place the pump back to the filter position

Green Algae

The most common algae found in swimming pools is green algae, and this type of algae is very quick to make itself known in unbalanced water. It clings to walls, builds up on pool cleaning equipment and reduces water clarity.
While correct chemical balance and sanitizer residuals will prevent many opportunities for algae to bloom, a pool with high pH and low chlorine can give algae a growth boost. It is essential that regular, preferably daily, emptying of filter baskets be done, as organic material and bacteria can contribute to algae growth and regular brushing of the sides of a marbellite pool prevents algae growth.

Common treatment
  • Test the pH of your water and adjust to between 7.2 and 7.6
  • Set the pump on backwash to clean out the filter
  • Re-set back to filter position and pour 1 bottle of Green Algaecide around the inside of the pool. Leave this to circulate overnight.
  • In the morning, brush down the sides of the pool with a stiff pool brush to loosen any stubborn algae.
  • For any algae that remains in the pool, apply 1 pack of  HTH Shock It.

Dark Brown or Yellow Stains

Stains that appear light tan (mustard), reddish brown or bluish-black are typically related to metals in your pool water. You can confirm this by brushing the stain with a stiff brush. If the stain is hard to remove, chances are it is metal stains. The metals that commonly cause pool stains are iron, manganese and copper. Copper will result in blue, almost black stains, while iron results in rusty, brown or green/brownish stains. If manganese is present it will result in dark brownish/black or purple stains.
Where a pool is filled from a borehole it's a good idea to take a sample of your pool water to have it tested for metals and it is essential to use Metal Remover regularly when topping up a pool, because metal stains can be almost impossible to remove.
If you believe your stain is related to metals, or if the suggestions above for organic pool stains do not lighten or improve the stain, you should purchase a natural ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) based pool product. When applied directly to the stain, these powerful pool chemicals will almost instantly remove the stain from the pool surface.

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